2009 DALLAS COUNTY DEMO DERBY CLASS  RULES

IMPORTANT THINGS TO REMEMBER!!

2009 RULES AND REGULATIONS

Demo Derby for Dallas County Fair (Promoter and Staff)

Contact:  Bobby Culp at 515-993-4984

Full Size & Compact Class

***If car does not pass inspection or driver is unwilling to change car to pass inspection - absolutely no refunds!!

1. All rules will be followed, or you will not run!!
2. Any American make sedan or station wagon can be run. No 70's or older Lincons.  No 1973 or Older imperials or Imperial sub-frames/frames, 4x4’s, ambulances, hearses, trucks, limousines, etc…
 3. Drivers must be 18 years of age and have a valid driver’s license.  Ages 16–17 must have a permission slip notarized by DCF official the night of event and valid driver’s license.
4. The person that signs in as the driver/passenger- must be the driver/passenger for that event!
5. Driver must wear seat belt and helmet, along with eye protection.
6. ALL drivers and crewmembers must attend the drivers meeting.
7. DO NOT hit the driver’s door! Sometimes this happens, but if it looks intentional or carelessness, you will be disqualified. Don’t use your door as a shield; it may cause you to get disqualified.
8. No hot rodding in the pits, keep it at an idle.
9. Any open driver’s door or fire will cause disqualification. If in heat, you may fix it and come back in the consolation.
10. NO sandbagging or holding!!! You will be disqualified!!!
11. You are given 20 seconds for aggressive hits, 1 minute for restarts and 1 minute if you are hung up.
12. No alcohol in the pits, if anyone is caught with alcohol, they will be disqualified, this includes their pit crew.
13. Cars are subject to re-inspection before any prize money is handed out. There is a $150 pro-test fee and you must be a driver in order to protest. Only drivers in the feature event may pro-test another car. Driver must have cash in hand directly after feature event in order to pro-test.
14. Any controversies will be taken up at the drivers meeting.
15. Any questions give us a call! If it doesn’t say you can do it, don’t do it. Call 1st!!
16. Judges decisions are FINAL!!!

Car Preparation
1. All cars must be stock, unless modification is stated in the rules.
2. All glass, plastic, chrome, and interior must be removed from car before arriving to the derby.
3. All decking in station wagons MUST be removed!!!
4. Tires no bigger than 15 inch, No split rims, No studded tires. Foam filled or Doubled tires OK-we don’t want any flats!!! Valve stem protectors OK. Tires may be screwed to rims.
5. Driver must have a fire coat or non-flammable jacket to wear while driving in event.
6. Driver must have safety approved glasses or face shield. Driver needs to have FULL faced helmets.
7. You must use a radiator and it must be in stock location.
8. All cars must have working brakes.
9. A-arms, ball joints remain stock.
10. All trailer hitches and braces must be removed.
11. Original gas tanks must be removed. You must use a boat tank or well made fuel cell and it must be properly secured and covered.
No gas cans. Plastic gas tanks must be placed in a metal box!! Fuel line must be secured and fastened properly. Keep away from exhaust. Place fuel cell behind driver’s seat or in the center of the car where the back seat, use to be. Compacts read additional rules on bottom!
12. Transmission coolers will be allowed, but must be safe and properly secured.
13. Batteries must be moved to passenger floorboard close to transmission. It must be properly secured and covered.
14. You must have a number In Bright colors on each front door and must have 15”x 15” roof sign with car number on it for judging and recognition of car. 
Car building: WELDING:
1. Only the Outside of Doors, trunks & Tailgates may be welded solid with 3 inch wide straps x 3/16 inch thick or smaller fill materials. Top of doors may be rolled over and welded with no added materials. If you decide not to weld, then you are allowed to chain/bolt/wire them shut with UNLIMITED use of chain/bolts/wires.
2. DO NOT weld on the frame or the frame seams. You can weld top frame seam from the front of the A-arms forward.
The frame seam weld can’t be larger then 1/2” wide or it will be cut!! Don’t weld bottom side. The uni-body is considered the frame on Mopar cars, which means No bolting the seam.
3. **For driver’s protection, you may weld a bar behind the seat from doorpost to doorpost, it can be an X, you may also have a bar across your dash, you may connect the dash bar to bars behind seat across the inside of front door only, you may also weld your steering column in, you can also weld a plate across the driver’s door not to exceed 6 inches past each seam. You may have a roll loop behind the seat, which must be welded to the floor and welded or bolted to the roof – no kickers going to the back or front of the car. Back of cage including roll bar, can only be 10” from back of seat. You will be allowed 2 down bars on the inside on driver’s door going down from the inside cross bar. Allowed 1 down bar on the inside of the passengers front door in the middle of the door only and not to frame or body mount. 
Bumpers:
4. Bumpers are interchangeable. Any Automotive bumper and bumper brackets may be used on any car. No homemade bumpers or brackets. You can weld bumper brackets and towers to the frame. You can weld bumper brackets and shocks to the bumper. You can weld shocks to shock towers. You can collapse shocks and you can bolt the shocks to the towers with 1/2 inch bolt or less and it must be done vertically. You may trim bumper ends or fold them around. Welding on the bumper skins together (chrome to inner liner of bumper) is allowed. When welding bumpers, shocks and brackets – do not add any metal. Weld shocks and brackets solid if you wish. Weld them well; we don’t want any bumpers falling off!                                                                  

5. Bumpers may be welded to end of frame with no added metal, just use the welder. Rear bumper may have 2 straps, 2- chains or 2-wires (4 loops) from trunk deck or tailgate to bumper (not frame). You can only have 1 of the 3 used, NOT all 3! Straps can be up to 3” wide and no more than 5” on the bumper and 5” on the trunk or tailgate. Straps may be up to ¼” thick.  You are allowed wire from radiator support to front bumper in 4 locations.

6.  Stock appearing bumpers – we will allow you to take any bumper apart.  Weld any material you like to the inside of the bumper.  Weld the chrome skin back into place.  Everything must be done inside of the bumper – FIX bumper. 
HOOD/TRUNKS:
7. **Hood must have at least a 12-inch square hole cut out in cast of fire.  You are allowed 12 extra- 3/8” bolts to bolt your hood skins
 (NOT TRUNK SKIN) back together. You will be allowed 8 hood bolts; you MUST have at least 4 hood bolts. You may have up to 1” all thread –2 may be used from the hood down to the frame, but must go through the front body mounts. The top 5” of all thread may be welded to radiator support. Chrysler products may run all thread behind radiator support down to top of frame and be welded to top of frame with no added material – All thread may pass thru frame. Hood bolts must be sheet metal to sheet metal. Hood must be open for inspection. Plates for hood bolts cannot exceed 5x5x1/2 inch. Hood bolts can be up to 1 inch in diameter.
8. You can fold hoods or trunk decks over but 60% of the hood or trunk lid must be in factory location. No tucking of wagon roof on Leaf spring wagons. 80’s & newer wagons may tuck roof down with 4 spots holding the roof down to the car body only—NOT Frame!
9. 2 - 1” All-thread may go from the trunk lid to frame, MUST go threw body mount hole .You may use wire in 2 spots with 4 loops from trunk lid and may go around the frame with the wire. CAN’T DO BOTH.
BODY MOUNTS:
10. Body mount bolts can be replaced with 1” bolts, Bolts may extend threw body and have up to a 5”x 5” x ¼”thick washer on top. Bolt must be up inside of frame as factory and may have larger washer inside of frame. Washers inside frame may not be used as a gusset!  If there is factory rubber mount without a body bolt, you can add the bolt to the mount.
REAR SUSPENSION:
11. Suspension must be at stock height. Leaf springs must be stock, you may add one spring as long as the main leaf spring, you can't wrap the added leaf spring to make a double main - tow packages OK. The Main leaf spring must be the top spring in the spring pack and leaf springs must stagger down with at least a 2 inch stagger from longest to smallest. You can re-clamp springs, 6 clamps per side homemade or factory. Homemade clamps can’t exceed 2x4x1/4 inch. You can put spacers in sagging coil springs to get your height. You can bolt or wire coil springs to rear-end and frame to prevent springs from falling out. You may weld leaf spring mounting brackets to prevent them from becoming unbolted. You can loop chain or wire from rear end to frame in 2 spots on each side. No bigger then #9 wire or 3/8”chain or cable may be used.
12. Mopars can weld mounting brackets to uni-body where leaf springs are mounted factory to uni-body frame.  Include rear shackle box.
13. Rear-end control arms may be reinforced, but must be workable. They may be shortened or made longer as well.  NO HOME MADE!
14. Use rear end of choice, must be factory 5 lugs. You can tilt rear end if you wish. Welded or posi-track highly recommended.
15. Rear-end Housings may be re-enforced. Hybred rear-ends are allowed

16. Front arms may be bolted or chained down to get your bumper height. 
ENGINE MOUNTING:
17. Engine mounts may be welded to engine cradle. Engine must be mounted in stock location.
18. Use motor and tranny of choice, motor must be in stock location. You may chain or weld motor and tranny to keep in place (don’t strengthen the frame).
19. You may have a 2-2” scrap from the motor head to frame on top side of frame next to A-arm on front side of motor and can be welded with no added metal!  You will be allowed 2- 2” straps on the rear of the motor connected from the motor heads to the Frame, but must be on the top side of frame with in 3 inches of the back side of A-arms. If this is used to re-enforce frame, straps will be cut!
STEERING:
20. Tie-rods ends must be stock, but the center can be re-enforced, A-arms, ball joints and all other steering/suspension must remain stock. You may alter your steering column to prevent loss of steering. Steering knuckles, homemade steering shafts, etc.
FENDERS:
21. You may cut wheel wells for tire clearance. Fenders may also be bolted together with 12-3/8” bolts or less. The rear quarter panel is considered part of the rear fender.
MISC:
22. For safety, you are allowed 1 strap in each door window opening straps can be 2” wide – ¼” thick and can be welded 5” on the door & 5” on the roof – you may not use wire if you use straps ** Hardtop cars may have another strap at the door post. You must have 2 bars in windshield from roof to dash for safety reasons.
23. You can run shifter through floor and you can have a switch panel. You may also have a hand throttle. If you are running an electric fuel pump – must be hooked up to your ignition switch – so when your car shuts off – it shuts off.
24. You are allowed 2 spots with 4 loops of wire (no cable or chain) in each window opening and may go to the frame. No welding washers around holes on car body.
25. You may run wire from frame rail to frame rail underneath back of car, behind rear-end with 4 loops of wire or 1 loop of 3/8 chain/cable in 1 spot only. This must go around the frame,this can not be bolted to the frame.
26. You are allowed to bolt Factory body seams together. NO WELDING!!!!
27. 80’s cars will be allowed Dist. Cap Protector. The protector must be mounted to engine heads and intake only.  There must be 12 inches of clearance between the Dist. Cap protector and the dash bar at the start of the event. Dist. Cap protector can't be mounted to body, frame or cage. Dist. Cap Protector or fire wall sheet metal CAN NOT touch the frame, dash/firewall or cage at anytime or car will be DQed! This will be enforced before, during and after the event!  This means if your protector pushes your dash back to hit against cage to keep car from bending you will be DQ’ed. 
RUST REPAIR & FRAME REPAIR:
28. You may repair rusted out sheet metal with sheet metal only. Leave the rust in place and repair over it.  Rusted out frames may be repaired with 1/8 inch or less. You are allowed to weld the patch 2 inches past the rusted out area, leave the rust in place.
29. Bent frames my be repaired with 1/8 inch metal 2 inches past the bend, but only on 1 side of the frame. The patch may be welded solid, but you must have a 1/2 inch hole in the patch.  You can only repair the frame once in each place. No re-patching or layering of patches.

COMPACT CLASS: In addition to the above rules-
1. Any Front wheel drive compact cars must be 108” or less wheelbase & Rear wheel drive cars must have a 106” or less wheelbase.
2. If the stock gas tank is located under the car but in front of rear axle, the stock gas tank may be used.

Special Notice For Payouts [click]